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Dressed for the Photographer: Ordinary Americans and Fashion, 1840-1900

Dressed for the Photographer: Ordinary Americans and Fashion, 1840-1900
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Dressed for the Photographer: Ordinary Americans and Fashion, 1840-1900

 
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Fashion has always been a cultivating force. And during the 19th century--a time of great change--fashion was a powerful component in the development of American society. Through dress, average individuals could step beyond class divisions and venture into the world of the elite and privileged. Beginning in 1840, with the advent of the daguerreotype, that moment could be captured for a lifetime.

In Dressed for the Photographer, Joan Severa gives a visual analysis of the dress of middle-class Americans from the mid-to-late 19th century. Using images and writings, she shows how even economically disadvantaged Americans could wear styles within a year or so of current fashion. This desire for fashion equality demonstrates that the possession of culture was more important than wealth or position in the community.

Arranging the photographs by decades, Severa examines the material culture, expectations, and socioeconomic conditions that affected the clothing choices depicted. Her depth of knowledge regarding apparel allows her to date the images with a high degree of accuracy and to point out significant details that would elude most observers. The 272 photographs included in this volume show nearly the full range of stylistic details introduced during this period. Each photograph is accompanied with a commentary in which these details are fully explored. In presenting a broad overview of common fashion, Severa gathers letters and diaries as well as photographs from various sources across the United States. She provides graphic evidence that ordinary Americans, when dressed in their finest attire, appeared very much the same as their wealthier neighbors. But upon closer examination, these photographs often reveal inconsistencies that betray the actual economic status of the sitter.

These fascinating photographs coupled with Severa's insights offer an added dimension to our understanding of 19th century Americans. Intended as an aid in dating costumes and photographs and as a guide for period costume replication, Dressed for the Photographer provides extensive information for understanding the social history and material culture of this period. It will be of interest to general readers as well as to social historians and those interested in fashion, costume, and material culture studies.

 
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Product Details
Author:Joan L. Severa
Hardcover:303 pages
Publisher:Kent State Univ Pr
Publication Date:1997-03
Language:English
ISBN:0873385128
Product Length:11.28 inches
Product Width:8.78 inches
Product Height:1.63 inches
Product Weight:5.04 pounds
Package Length:11.28 inches
Package Width:8.78 inches
Package Height:1.63 inches
Package Weight:5.04 pounds
Average Customer Rating: based on 17 reviews

Customer Reviews
Average Customer Review:5.0 ( 17 customer reviews )
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Most Helpful Customer Reviews

25 of 26 found the following review helpful:


5A fabulously insightful look into American History  Jan 28, 1998 By Angela F. Lazear "Mzscahlett"
Ms. Severa's thoughtful and articulate tour through approximately 60 years of American Fashion reads more like a novel than a fashion textbook, although it is certainly an excellent example of the latter. Her inclusion of a detailed historical preface to each decade studied, provides the reader with a good sense of the times these people lived in, their wants, hopes and backgrounds are all captured and rendered understandable to both the historian and the casual observer.

As a newcomer to the study of dress, I found her ability to recognize and explain subtle details of clothing nuances extraordinary. Many of these were, at first glance barely visible in an aging photograph, but upon her outlining them they became so readily apparent as to cause the reader to wonder why they hadn't seen it sooner! It is a lovely book, either for the professional costumer or historian, or the casual observer who might want a glimpse into the history of those who came before, and the role fashion played throughout the early history of America.

18 of 18 found the following review helpful:


5A Photographic Treat  Apr 19, 2002
If you like looking at old photographs with haunting, austere faces staring out from stilled figures in 19th-century garb, this book is worth every penny. The photos in this volume are incredibly evocative and encompass a wide range of people from various walks of life. The photos are nicely presented, with one large picture per page accompanied by an extensive caption that explains the clothing/fashion details reflected in the picture. This is one of those books that I return to again and again because I love what it does to my imagination, in terms of stimulating my ideas regarding both Victorian-era costuming and a way of life that is long since vanished.

15 of 15 found the following review helpful:


5Excellent reference on dress, hair, etc to aid dating photos  Oct 13, 1999 By Kathleen (McLaughlin) Nolin
In only about fifteen minutes I identified my gggrandmother's photo as belonging to the 1850's era by her dress, hair and collar. Easy to use by comparing photo to those in the book and the descriptions offered in the text. Arranged by decade, this is a truely marvelous reference and well worth the price.

18 of 19 found the following review helpful:


5Probably the best thing available in this field  Feb 23, 2003 By Michael K. Smith
I consider Severa's work to be of great potential use to any family researcher who has ever stared at an unidentified family photograph and wondered just when and where it was taken. For, unless one descends from a famous family, such images are likely to be distressingly anonymous. As with any type of historical research, searching out the context can greatly increase one's chances -- and in a photo, while the countryside and the buildings may not change, the clothing of the subjects almost certainly will. Even those expert in other areas of historical knowledge often make mistakes in interpreting the depicted garments of ordinary people. Or not so ordinary: The author describes several misinterpretations even of Paul Revere's clothing in the famous John Singleton Copley portrait. And Severa, as probably the leading historian of American costume, is certainly the best possible author for a massive study like this. Each chapter covers one decade of the 19th century since the practical introduction of photography, including first a discussion of general trends and the effects of manufacturing innovations and social influences, and then examining and discussing a large number of specific individual and group portraits of farmers, families, children, shop girls, and soldiers in considerable detail. This isn't "just" a reference guide, though, but a fully realized history and the reader not only will learn about the details of American dress but also will acquire a number of new insights in historical method.

17 of 18 found the following review helpful:


5A TRULY AMAZING CHRONICLE OF THE WAY WE WORE  Dec 05, 1997 By nathandi@earthlink.net
I have never owned a book that crosses so many subject lines. Although presented like a school text for a Fashion History class, "Dressed for the Photographer" is such a beautifully crafted reference that it makes historical fashion fascinating.

Anyone who enjoys browsing through very old photographs will be amazed at the quality of the Daguerrotypes, tintypes, ambrotypes and assorted other photographic techniques included in the pictorial sections. The text that accompanies each photograph includes whatever information was available on the subject. In a picture worth a thousand words, Ms. Sevra reads what the economic and cultural means of the people probably were by their manner of dress. In a few well-documented photographs, the photographer is even mentioned.

Probably the most interesting stills are those of African-Americans. African-Americans are portrayed as business-owners, college graduates, and servants. But, the fact that they are included at all is very special. It is unfortunate that fashion documentation of other people of color either wasn't as plentiful or available for inclusion.

Ms. Sevra has managed to portray America as it grew older as a country; the wealth and demeanor of her citizens through the way they were captured on film. It is a unique and quite appropriate historical perspective on the beginnings of a culture that has become the ideal of consumption. I can only hope that in another 100 years, someone else will be as thorough (and unbaised) with today's disposible camera society.

reviewed by Yvonne

See all 17 customer reviews on Amazon.com

 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
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